On the Photo: Alain Ghersen in the third length, tapered to the pin that had become "South of Nowhere." One of the boldest passages for free. Mountaineering
Ivan Ghirardini A first for the south face of the Aiguille du Midi
Chamonix. - After a first attempt in November failed because of the arrival of
bad weather, the guide and Didier Ivan Ghirardini Savignat, both have passed the Chamonix last weekend their project: A new route on the south side the Aiguille du Midi (3842 m).
This new route is entirely left to the wall which has many channels including right to left lanes Kohlman, contaminated Rebuffat. Mazeaud, not to mention the most known.
A route of 200 meters high side
TD over by climbers, showing its high difficulty. It is already attacking the climb by climbing two steps to climb before
for free following a length of 35 meters very hard in a dihedral VI followed by a crack also climbed in Artificial (AI). After a very good relay, the track develops into a crack overflow (VI and IV). We leave to the left to Dülffer (VI A1), at which level the difficulties are comparable to the south side of Bishop. Then comes a very hard crack VI athletic. Finally, the original route joins the output
Cretton after a succession of cracks and dihedrals. Difficulty
overall very strong in a very good rock. She remained in the passages equipped with artificial.
The two men camped in the wall, having left on Saturday morning, they finished. in the day Sunday, but the moonlight would have enabled them to continue their ascent in the evening. This route
impressive the first of which was successful in unusually mild weather this time of year (nearly one-winter) can be repeated throughout the day.
Candidates for this adventure should bring cleats and friends.
Ivan Ghirardini, leading expert mountaineer sofitaire high level and his climbing partner. • are assessed on the southern side of the 'sun of December.
JP ROUDIER
Our photo: Ivan Ghirardini a hand-drawn the route of the first mountaineering
Ivan Ghirardini A first for the south face of the Aiguille du Midi Chamonix
. - After a first attempt in November has failed Due to the arrival of
bad weather, the guide and Ivan Ghirardini Didier Savignat, both have passed the Chamonix last weekend their project: A new route on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi (3842 m).
This new route is entirely left to the wall which has many channels including right to left lanes Kohlman Contamine, Rebuffat. Mazeaud, not to mention the most known.
A route of 200 meters high side
TD over by climbers, showing its high difficulty. It is already attacking the climb by climbing two steps to climb before
for free following a length of 35 meters very hard in a dihedral VI followed by a crack as she climbed in Artificial (AI). After a very good relay, the track develops into a crack overflow (VI and IV). We leave to the left to Dülffer (VI A1), at which level the difficulties are comparable to the south side of Bishop. Then comes a very hard crack VI athletic. Finally, the original route joins the output
Cretton after a succession of cracks and dihedrals. Difficulty
overall very strong in a very good rock. She remained in the passages equipped with artificial.
The two men camped in the wall, having left on Saturday morning, they finished. in the day Sunday, but the moonlight would have enabled them to continue their ascent in the evening. This route
impressive the first of which was successful in unusually mild weather this time of year (nearly one-winter), may be repeated throughout the day.
Candidates for this adventure should bring cleats and friends.
Ivan Ghirardini, leading expert mountaineer sofitaire high level and his climbing partner. • are assessed on the southern side of the 'sun of December.
JP ROUDIER
Our photo: Ivan Ghirardini has drawn hand the route of the first.
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Ten years later, for $% * § μ Vertical top, the length between R2 and R3 becomes:
"South of Nowhere," a 8b VI/A2 side we had at the opening. Fortunately we had left a tapered pin Simond "wrenkling possibility" in the crack. Vertical
could say "we found the way Ghirardini to the Aiguille du Midi!". it would have been much more fun. In any case, a friendly hello to Alain Ghersen who released this great length is true. But the suite was nice too. Another logical way massacred by spiteurs deficient.
