What a pity that this failure to the Matterhorn, what a pity that this failure in this trilogy Directissime he could perform more than adequately. But that's why I scream from the trilogy of Profit. 'm Not the only one to see the problem? Mountaineering is French so he went blind?
REFERENCES ARE DISTORTED THE FACTS Because WERE NOT SAY THAT THE MEDIA AND "moron" MADE IN misinformation.
The "last three issues of the Alps were the major challenge of the 1930s the best climbers in the world. How many have died for in assessments? You forget this forty died on the Eiger, often affecting strong climbers lost in a face full of traps and more ice than anything else?
After the war, the successful rehearsals by French as Terray, Lachenal, Rebuffat showed that these faces could take a more relaxed but they remain formidable.
In the 60s, and Bonatti Desmaison made themselves a competition for the first winter, others, like Harling opened the Directissime, others made the lonely.
In the late 70's and Hasegawa Ghirardini succeeded the first trilogies lonely winter.
The next step is the most beautiful, most magical, that of Directissime lonely winter.
Bonatti Successful in part by the Matterhorn, the Eiger to Sveticic, Daudet Jorasses for example.
But the problem is the "chains" or sequences called 1980s. This is not the result of this attempt is a problem. Access is free and everyone should live your dreams as he wants.
THESE ARE THE RECORDS THAT MUST BE TRUE.
Forget where Cesen and climbs imaginary unproven and sometimes zany and not disinterested. Take the case of the Trilogy Profit. A beautiful sporting achievement, but nobody doubts the report is correct? How many repetitions? Preparation or not the means? Deposits? Drops? Recoveries in a helicopter as the summit of the Matterhorn. Without an exact relationship, these are references that are distorted and it is a trap that opens to many others and not just the trilogies.
Take the case of Lionel Daudet. Superb project but on reflection a little, went straight into a wall. He had had plenty of chances for this happening. Never rely on luck MOUNTAIN!
In his case, and in the best conditions, with connections on skis, it took 3 weeks to succeed. The long row of good weather, this is some winters, but is already taking a huge risk.
Then the exponential depletion. A real wall. Play three weeks of effort as extreme as those of winter mountaineering is quickly get in the red. A risk that should not be taken.
If Lionel Daudet was left to the logic Hasegawa Ghirardini-70s, two mountain guides, remember, his trilogy of Directissime became feasible without taking unnecessary risks. Stick with simple rules:
Wait a window of good weather enough to attempt a face and back down. Do not leave until the conditions are good or acceptable (avalanches, cold ...).
Recover afterwards. The efforts are considerable. Wear and general fatigue, dehydration, loss muscle mass .... ON THE MEN DO NOT EXIST. Faced with such efforts, we must replenish correctly and well rested before leaving. It's the same caution.
Finally, you will not care media. These days in these faces may be the most beautiful in your life, so take the time to really enjoy.
These "great days" worth a life.
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